Pete Hinchley: Log

2024-09-28

• Final day. Somehow we had breakfast. Showered. Packed. Stretched. And it was 2pm and time to checkout. Let's just call it a slow morning. We had a couple of hours until we needed to get to the airport so we browsed the malls and i picked up a Bellroy Voyager sling bag. Lunch was at the Food Republic food court at the Ion shopping centre. We caught bus 36 to Terminal 3 and easily passed the time to our 20:25 departure. I was hoping to pickup the iPhone 16 Pro Max duty free, but the reseller at the airport had sold out (as had the Apple Store in town). We were originally not seated together, but the staff helped arrange a seat swap which worked well. I watched the Japanese movie Evil Does Not Exist (awesome) and chowed down the palak paneer for dinner before doing my best to sleep. Seems I actually did get some rest, as I was woken from a dream of Megan throwing rocks at the house of an accused murderer. Entry into Australia was dandy. Post customs coffee at Veloce Espresso whilst waiting for the Murray's bus.

2024-09-27

• Woke late and quickly marched off for a robot coffee (a robot in the hotel makes a killer flat white) then onto breakfast. This time i opted for Chinese pork and rice as the main. We then bounded out onto the streets and ventured to the Botanic Gardens which were vast and magnificent. After returning and refuelling with a mother robot coffee we ventured back to the shops where i found myself lost in a maze of arcade alleys looking for a Pitaka iPhone case. A kind lady in a shop i stumbled into phoned around until she located one in a nearby store. It was then onto the gym, followed by the evening cocktail, and then Chinatown for dinner. Mixing cultures, we opted for super fresh Vietnamese, before making our way to the Bay of Gardens for the light show. Little did we know it only played twice per night and we arrived 7 minutes after the final viewing. Such is life. It was still a beautiful night. Then back to the hotel where we both slept like insomniacs.

2024-09-26

• Poached eggs, tomatoes, shrooms and wilted greens for breakfast (along with all the rest). We then caught the bus to Little India. Wandered through the streets and had lunch at a street restaurant. Ate with our hands and washed off in the outdoor sink. Felt like we were in Mumbai. Then we walked onwards to a neighbouring region that was a blend of Asian, European, and Middle Eastern cultures. When we were sufficiently drowned in sweat we returned home, cautiously worked out at the gym, claimed our evening cocktail, and then headed out to browse the stores. Picked up a few t-shirts and had dinner at a food mall (pepper chicken drumstick and vege mix).

2024-09-24

• Two days blur into one. On Tuesday morning we woke, ate scrambled eggs on toast, packed up, and hauled ourselves onto a train bound to the airport. Checkin and passport control passed without a hitch and we filled in the time before the flight drenching ourselves in fragrance samples. My personal favourite is Tuscan Leather by Tom Ford, and let me tell you, by the time we boarded i was more than liberally performed.

  Upon boarding we realised we had swung seats with additional leg room (with no seats in front that could be reclined into our faces), but the negative was that i was seated between sweet little Megan and a giant. So large was the man that the arm rests were forced to spread apart when he pushed into the seat, and he had to request a belt extender as the default seat belt was insufficient. But he was a nice chap, and amazingly i passed the 12 hour flight without too much imposition. On the journey i watched the Japanese movie Analog which i had started on our flight to Europe. It is such an incredible film.

  On arrival at 6:45am the following morning we entered the Singapore without fuss and easily found our way to Hotel Como. Unable to checkin we stowed our bags and headed into the humidity like two gorillas into the mist, and wandered through Gardens by the Bay. The Cloud Dome and Flower Dome were both something to behold. Lunch was at a local food court - we both had a ramen which was surprisingly tasty. In the afternoon we made use of the hotel gym and enjoyed a cocktail by the rooftop infinity pool. For dinner we shared a prawn omelette and a calamari dish at the Newtown Hawker. Followed up by tea and chocolate back at the hotel. Both tired as hell, but alive and well.

2024-09-23

• Scrambled on toast served with a slow morning. Ventured outside around 10:30. Started with a coffee at Cafezal Torrefazione. Then onto a vintage shopping circuit discovered online. Megan was pumped to land an Enrico Coveri runway piece at Vintage Delerium. We broke for lunch at Come 'Na Vorta where i devoured the most delectable lasagna. Megan continued on along her vintage route while i unexpectedly found myself at a book signing event at Mondadori Duomo (brought on by a need to escape the rain). I then caught the subway back to Isola where i had a memorable haircut experience at The Barber Milano. Dinner was downstairs at Sorbillo Isola. Pizza for moi. Calzone for Megs. Gelato followed.

2024-09-22

• A repeat of yesterday's breakfast routine then onto the train from Central Station bound for Varenna on Lake Como. The journey took an hour and passed quickly as i listened to the Question Everything podcast. Varenna proved to be a quaint and picturesque little town and we easily wiled away the time wandering through the old cobbled streets. We had coffee and a pistachio pastry at Al Barilott followed by lunch at 27 Metriquadri Cafe where i opted for the vegetarian pizza and a wine. We then strolled through the old Villa Monastero gardens before languishing in the afternoon sun with an Aperol Spritz at Bistro Varenna. We intended to catch the 4:30 train back to Milan, but it was delayed significantly. Fortunately we found another path that still had us home by just after 6pm. Dinner was across the street at miscusi Milano Isola looking over Piazza Tito Minniti. Spaghetti and meatballs with a glass of red. Then the usual routine of a nightly gelato.

2024-09-21

• Scrambled eggs and shrooms for breakfast cooked at the apartment. And stovetop coffee. A slow and relaxed start to the day. Then out onto the streets where we roamed like stray dogs. Dipped in and out of alleyways and shops and soaked up the atmosphere. Planned on a coffee at the Starbucks Reserve Roastery but the line was egregious so we found a normal Starbucks instead. Dove into the Duomo which is vast and powerful and sporting the best stained glass windows in the business. Got hassled by a hawker outside who thrust bird seed into our hands for the pigeons and then demanded money in return. I refused and he was not happy. Megan was distressed by the encounter. We decided to take a break from the overpowering crowds by venturing to G. B. Bar for lunch. I had a panini but it had nothing on the sandwich from the previous night. We then visited Santuario di San Bernardino alle Ossa, a small chapel decorated with numerous human skulls and bones. In 1210, when an adjacent cemetery ran out of space, a room was built to hold bones. A church was attached in 1269. Insane. And empty. Seems the crowds were too busy lining up outside of Starbucks and the Apple Store. We then began the meandering walk back home where we finished up with pasta and Aperol Spritz for dinner at Jo Cafe and gelato from Gelateria Borsieri downstairs.

2024-09-20

• On the road by 9am heading toward Bolzano Airport to return the hire car. The drop off went well, although the bus into the train station prompted the sweats as we found ourselves off the plotted trajectory and heading away from our destination towards the far edge of town. However, eventually the bus found its way, and we arrived with 90 minutes to spare. We drank some coffee and literally walked laps of the station waiting for our departure, only to discover mere minutes before we were scheduled to leave, that we were waiting on the wrong platform for the wrong train. We rushed like ferrets to the correct train which by this point was bustling with expectant passengers and fortunately nabbed the last two free adjoining seats. The journey went quickly with a painless switch in Verona, and before we knew it, we were in Milan. We walked from the station to our AirBnB which completely blew our minds. Such an incredible space. We both wanted to move in instantly. We unpacked, threw the dirties into the washing machine, and headed out into the town. And bloody hell, what a wonderful evening wandering the streets. The city resembled a throbbing fashion parade. I have never seen so many jackets being worn without arms in sleeves. Nor so many pet dogs. We enjoyed Aperol Spritz and a panini for dinner (well, i did, Megan went the tuna salad) at Ai Tre Morsi. Best damn panini i have eaten. We even played paparazzi for a time, with Megan bumping shoulders with the pros as she jostled to take glamour shots of models arriving to some fancy do. At one point she even sat on my shoulders to gain a height advantage for a clearer angle. It was quite the evening, with perfect late summer weather conditions. We strolled home via a gelato store and i eased my way to slumber reading The Nordic Theory of Everything.

2024-09-19

• After a bout of heaving Googling the previous night and with the assistance of an impromptu trial of AllTrails, we decided to hike to Stevia Hut from Selva. Megan was hesitant as parts of the track appeared treacherous, but to her credit she decided to give it a crack. So after a quaint breakfast we walked into town and began the 10km circuit. And bloody hell, what a way to round out our time in the Dolomites. This walk had it all. Epic views. A good grind on the way up. Lush forest. Open meadows. Mountain goats. And a rifugio at the top that served sumptuous omelettes. The track was in excellent condition and was fashioned with steps on the steepest sections which eased the climb. The walk starts from Selva where we were staying, so we didn't need to drive, worry about parking, or pay for a cable car. We were also blessed with excellent conditions. After completing the hike we wandered back to the hotel via the town, looking at the shops along the way, including the local Despar, which has to be one of the best supermarkets in the business. We then spent the remainder of the afternoon reviewing the mountain of photos (excuse the pun) whilst drinking tea and wine. We walked back into town to Pizzeria Ristorante L Ciamin for dinner. I had bratwurst, potatoes and sauerkraut, while Megan opted for goulash with dumplings.

2024-09-18

• On the road by 9am and heading towards Ortisei. Decided to replay the route we took to Cortina in reverse as the more direct route was closed and the alternatives, whilst shorter in distance, looked rather gnarly. On arrival we found parking in very short supply. There were no slots available at the Ortisei-Furnes Gondola Station (where we intended to catch the cable car up to Seceda) but despite all other vehicles being turned away, to our astonishment we were guided by an assistant to the prime spot at the foot of the station. We bought tickets (90 Euro - ouch), boarded the first of 2 cable cars, and began the ascent. The ride up was spectacular, as was the view along the Seceda Ridgeline when we arrived at the top. It was also bitterly cold. We ate sandwiches for lunch and then launched into the Seceda Pieralongia Hut - Firenze Refuge - Daniel Hut hike. Meandering across the Mastle meadows, and taking a little over 4 hours, it was stunning, although the outward journey was a little muddy, but considering warmer than the ridge. Having completed the hike, and feeling completely spent, we caught the cable car back down and drove the short distance to Selva di Val Gardena where we checked into Villa Insam. Owned and operated by a lovely old lady and her husband (who appears to be near the end), it has the feel of an up-market hostel. It's great. We picked up supplies for lunches on our way to dinner at 'L Fudle, where we shared two pizzas. We then called it a night.

2024-09-17

• Into the buffet rhythm, although i threw in a curve ball and asked for a mug of hot water so i could use one of the coffee bags we hauled over from Oz as a follow up to the hotel-provided latte macchiato. Not feeling up to the Lake Soparis hike, and fearful of the logistics involved in hiking the Tre Cime de Laravedo (the three lads), we went hard on the Google and landed on the suggestion of hiking The Three Lakes. And so we did. Starting near Cortina and incorporating a visit to the Croda da Lago Rifugio (which we had visited on a previous hike, but via a different route), this walk had it all. A steep climb through thick-rooted forest, past moss covered boulders sprouting majestic old pines, around serene lakes, across lush meadows with hypnotic views over the mountains, and a 2km passage that intertwined with a crystal clear stream that gushed with abandon down the mountain. And we can't forget the unforgettable smoked bacon dumplings in broth at the rifugio. Heaven. We gathered ourselves after the hike by drinking wine in the afternoon sun back at the hotel. Dinner was at Baita Ciastel. I had venison ragu with fettuccine and Megan had venison medallions with polenta and blueberry sauce. A nice way to cap the day.

2024-09-16

• A solid buffet breakfast featuring many cakes and slices. Then onto the next hike: Cinque Torri + Nuvolau. We caught the chair lift to Rifugio Scoiattoli, walked around and through the Cinque Torri rock formation, and then scrambled our way up the 1km exposed gravel hillside to Nuvolau. It was bitterly cold and the climb proved rather exhausting, but the good news was that Megan got to try out her new crampons (which worked a treat) and the views were epic. We also scored a spot inside the rifugio by the fire where we enjoyed a sumptuous lunch. I had beetroot gnocchi (the size of peas) and Megan had beef goulash with sauerkraut. Refuelled, we waddled down the slope to the cable car and made our way back home where we relished an outdoor wood-fired hot tub and sauna. And so we spent the remainder of the day cycling between the two whilst drinking champagne. The heat of the water intermixed with the fresh late evening air, all offset with an exquisite alpine backdrop, made for a memorable experience. Relaxed as a pair of aged teddy bears we then headed out to La Stua for dinner. We ate at the bar to avoid the wait. I had the popular local dish casunziei (beetroot ravioli) and it was simply divine. Megan opted for a simple tuna and mozzarella salad.

2024-09-15

• Awake at 7. Buffet at 7:30. 4 cakes down by 8. The calories were not to be wasted for today we completed the Croda de Lago loop. A 6.5 hour epic trek through snow, ice and boulders. We stopped briefly at the rifugio for coffee, but otherwise it was a journey into the wild. The ice was treacherous and at times we feared we would veer off track to be lost in a blizzard of hypothermia, but somehow we found the courage and the footholds to pull it off. We celebrated by shopping at North Face and eating pizza at La Perla. Megan also bought crampons for confidence.

2024-09-14

• Scrambled eggs on toast with smoked salmon, cooked tomatoes and jarlsberg cheese for breakfast. Then on the road to our next destination: Cortina d'Ampezzo. It was a 2 hour drive, and compared to the previous days behind the wheel, it was rather straight forward. From Cortina, the plan was to take the chair lifts up to Tofana di Mezzo, but unfortunately the lifts were closed due to the extreme wind gusts (up to 80 km/h). Forced to pivot, we had a coffee and apricot pastry at Pasticceria Panificio Alverà. We then took a stroll along a 1hr loop path that took us through the open fields to nearby Campo and back again. It was really beautiful. We pulled up a bench in town to eat our home packed ham and cheese sandwiches before driving on to our accommodation at Hotel il Cardo. We checked in after 2pm, then took a stroll into the adjoining township of San Vito di Cadore. We picked up some lunch supplies for tomorrow, and a bottle of wine, and then returned to the hotel where we planned our next hike with a glass of red. Feeling relaxed we headed out to Mato Kitchen Bar for dinner where i enjoyed the best mushroom risotto of my life.

2024-09-13

• We woke to a sky that was no longer raining. It was overcast, but calm, but the heat wave of the last 2 weeks had been abruptly supplanted by a sudden cold change. Overnight, while we enjoyed the wonders of central hydronic heating, 60 cm of snow had been dumped across Val di Funes where we intended to spend the day hiking along the Adolf-Munkel-Weg track. Feeling incredibly ill prepared, we decided to push ahead with the planned itinerary, but not before we hoed into a fine breakfast of scrambled eggs. tomatoes, and smoked salmon on toast. The drive to the trail head was only about 30 minutes, in theory, but the mighty Fiat isn't exactly hill fit, and hovered around a top speed of 30 km/h on the steeper sections of road. Overall, i was feeling confident behind the wheel, until i realised the road, which was so narrow it surely had to be single lane, was in fact a two-way death trap, a fact that i quickly discovered upon encountering a large bus on a corner that was barely wide enough for a bicycle. Some fine proprioception skills helped to avert a tragedy, but my confidence took a beating, with additional blows landing around each new bend in the road, as the layers of snow continued to rise. Just as i was starting to berate myself for not bringing chains, we arrived at the trail head car park. And from this point forward, we were enveloped in pure joy. The scenery was like nothing we had previously witnessed. Everything draped in snow. The sheer faces of the mountains presiding over us like gods. It was epically beautiful. We followed the loop recommended by Earth Trackers, and stopped in at the Malga Casnago for a coffee and a delicious pancake with apple and cranberry sauce. Seriously, sitting in that warm little rifugio, buffered up against the butt of the mighty mountains, drinking coffee and sharing a dessert, is a moment in time that won't easily fade. After completing the hike, we took a brief stroll through the picturesque town of St Magdalena, before heading into Chiusa Klausen to pick up some additional supplies from the supermarket and withdraw some cash from the ATM to pay for our accommodation. We took some time to wander through the town and it was surprisingly beautiful. Back at home we re-engaged the washing machine, finished off the wine and the left overs from the previous night, and relived the perfect day that had just unfolded.

2024-09-12

• The usual 2.5 hour buffet bonanza got shortened to 90 minutes (the horror) as we needed to make haste to catch the outbound train to Bolzano, the starting point for our journey into the Italian Dolomites. We boarded from Munich Central Station on time, and settled in for a 4 hour train ride. It passed quickly with support from a couple of podcasts and patches of stellar outdoor scenery. Upon arriving at Bolzano, we were met by an absence of taxis. Apparently there is only one taxi company servicing the town, so i placed a call via WhatsApp, but was greeted by an unanswered dial tone. We switched tactics and opted for the bus. Fortunately it was only a 10 minute wait. Unfortunately, it was chocked full like a can of sardines. Tickets could be purchased on board, but only with coins... coins we didn't have, so once again we rode like a pair of barons. The bus driver and Google maps did not agree, but despite the unexpected route, we alighted at a stop near the airport. I say near, as we needed to walk the better part of a km to the terminal down a road that was not designed for walking. The surrounds did not inspire confidence, and at one point we were sure we would be greeted by nothing more than a stray dog and a placard saying closed for renovations, but after rounding the corner of the terminal building we let out a collective sigh of relief when we saw a Europcar sign and a flurry of activity. We completed the necessary paperwork, took receipt of the keys, quickly downed a coffee for confidence, strapped ourselves into the mighty Fiat, and almost immediately drove into the back of the vehicle parked in front. I quickly understood the problem. The car wasn't in reverse. And to make matters worse, i had no idea how to get this manual stick shift into the R position. I heaved, and thrust, and swore and willed, and then asked Megan to get out and push the car backwards far enough that i could sidestep the problem and just drive forward. And so we were off. We felt like we were making good progress for the first 400m, but then something went awry, and we ended up on the wrong road, a toll road no less, and in a tunnel for good measure, heading in the wrong direction. We quickly exchanged some very choice words, and the temperature inside the car rose precipitously, but like a rally driving wingman, Megan took charge, reworked the route, and had us back on track. The drive to the accommodation was about 40 minutes. In the rain. It wasn't exactly a walk in the park. A new car, a manual of course, on the wrong side of the road, in unfamiliar surrounds, with little idea where we were going and Celine Dion on the radio. It was proving to be a good stretch exercise. We even passed the occasional crashed car for good measure... as if the gods were egging us on. But to the surprise of all, we arrived at our accommodation unscathed. After dumping our gear, we drove back into town to grab some supplies from the local supermarket for dinner and lunches the following day. And like an annoying work colleague that won't piss off, our old nemesis - the reverse gear - reared his ugly head. I had parked nose first to the wall and there was only one way out - reverse, and i still didn't know how to find it. And this is how we found ourselves Googling, "how to reverse a fiat". Fortunately the internet is full of random shit, including a video of a man finding reverse in a Fiat. And so, having learnt about the trigger on the gear shift that needed to be lifted upwards to engage the enigmatic reverse, we were on our way. We celebrated back at the accommodation with a load of washing and a glass of local red made from the grapes born of the property on which we were staying.

2024-09-11

• Day 3 at the buffet, and i think it is fair to say it got the upper hand. Still weary from carrying last night's oversized schnitzel, we were considerably more considered and temperate with our portions, although we made up for the reduced consumption by smuggling out 4 takeaway sandwiches. We made like barons and rode the tram for free to Nymphenburg Palace. Arguably the most expansive summer house in this quarter of the Virgo Supercluster, we spent a good few hours wandering through the Central Pavilion and several of the smaller garden pavilions that dotted the 490 acre grounds. This included the Amalienburg and Magdalenenklause (intentionally constructed in the style of a ruin). And we can't forget the extraordinary collection of court carriages and sleighs at Marstallmuseum.

  At this point it was early afternoon, and we decided to head over to Gärtnerplatz a somewhat trendy area of Munich with lots of cafes and cute curated stores. We enjoyed a nice coffee at Sweet Spot Kaffee before meandering our way back to the hotel to unwind.

2024-09-10

• Arrived at breakfast at 7 on the dot, and put in another mighty effort. Casually walked into Munich Central Train Station to join a tour of Dachau Concentration Camp. Once again the tour was with Radius Tours - this time the host was Mark. We caught a train (about 20 minutes) to Dachau, and then a 10 minute bus ride to the memorial site. The tour lasted about 3.5 hours and it was absolutely incredible. The guide was at the top of his game. He provided lots of insightful commentary about the camp and the atrocities that befell those that were imprisoned. It was heart wrenching. But also important to understand lest we allow such horror to take hold again. We arrived back into Munich around 4pm. We then caught a tram to the English Garden where we watched people surf on the Eisbach river. We waited out a short burst of rain in the garden under the cover of several magnificent trees, and watched a recalcitrant dachshund tease it's owner. It was kind of a special moment (take my word for it). We then walked back toward our accommodation to have dinner at Andy's Krablergarten. I ate quite possibly the world's largest schnitzel. Emblazoned with flavours of horseradish and Bavarian mustard, and served with chips and 1/2 litre of wheat beer, the experience was somewhat spiritual. We happened to share a table with an older couple from France who were simply delightful. We traded some broken conversation and laughs, and they offered a portion of their sultana and almond strudel dessert. It was a dinner to remember. We then walked back home through the Alter Südfriedhof cemetery. Meg decided to take a stroll to the Munich Health Sports Club gym up the road for a late night workout. I decided to grow fat on the bed.

2024-09-09

• Kicked the morning off with a stellar buffet breakfast at the hotel. Smashed through all the options on offer, and carried the shame with me for the remainder of the day. We walked into the Old Town for a tour of The Residence. It is a grand old building that served as the seat of government and residence of the Bavarian dukes, electors and kings from 1508 to 1918. It was seriously over the top, but wonderful to witness. We ate sandwiches (furtively prepared and smuggled from the breakfast buffet) in the gardens outside and then followed up with a mind exploding plumb strudel at the Rischart Cafe. We took a short stroll through Viktualienmarkt (a daily food market that has been running since 1807) and then joined a Third Reich walking tour with Radius Tours mid-afternoon. The tour lasted for about 3 hours, and took in several of the significant sites relating to Nazi rule, including The Führerbau ("the Führer's building") and the identical Administrative Building (which held the membership cards of all the Nazi Party members). The guide, Josh, was enthusiastic and knowledgeable, although perhaps a little odd. He spent considerable time explaining the complex response of the German people to the war and the holocaust, including the sensitivities that still remain to this day. This was personally felt when a passerby noticed our group, stopped, pointed their hand like a gun toward us, and stood motionless, holding us in their cross hairs for 30 seconds or more, before promptly marching off. After the tour, we walked home, stopping in at Hans Im Glück for dinner. I had the chicken and mushroom burger; Megan a fresh chicken salad. Great food. Great vibe.

2024-09-07

• Up at 6 and on the Murray's bus to Sydney by 8. Arrived at the international terminal at 11, and checked in shortly thereafter (no queue). We strolled through immigration in record time (again, no queue) and i was soon deep in the mist of Tom Ford fragrance samples. Enjoyed a Campos coffee and toasted vegetable + bocconcini sandwich for lunch. Started boarding around 2:30pm, and were in the air just past 3. We scored seats in the middle block of 4, myself on the aisle, with Megan beside me. She was fortunate to have a vacancy to her left. The flight was smooth, lasted a little over 7 hours, and passed in what felt like good time. We watched two movies - The Iron Claw and Stormskerry Maja. Radically different films, but both were quite moving. I had butter chicken for dinner and a chicken pie for breakfast. Both were on point.

  We had a two hour layer-over in Singapore. I stretched the legs, topped up on Tom Ford samplers, and before you know it, we were on our way to Munich. This leg of the journey was fulfilled by Lufthansa. A significant step down from Singapore Airlines, we were greeted by a series of minor missteps - no luggage storage above our seats, small seat pockets, an entertainment system that worked until it didn't, mediocre food, and a plane that bounced around like it was an 80's aerobics instructor. But, hey, we made it safely, which when you think about it - leaving Sydney at 3pm Saturday and touching down on the other side of the globe at 5am Sunday morning - is no small feat.

  Immigration was smooth - about a 10 minute wait, and customs - well, it didn't exist. We collected our baggage, withdrew 180 Euro just in case, and then attempted to activate our Nomad eSIMs. No dice. Try as i might, I couldn't get them to connect to the local provider. I suspect the issue was caused by the installation of the Singapore eSIM. This was purchased on the same day as the European SIM, and according to my working theory, this overwrote the APN and potentially other critical settings. Anyway, i lodged a support ticket (thanks airport Wi-Fi) and then promptly purchased two new SIMs from Airalo (one for myself, and one for Megan). Connected in an instant.

  Mobile data sorted, we purchased airport-city day tickets and caught the train into Karlsplatz station. From there it was an easy 15 minute walk on quiet Sunday streets to our accommodation at Cocoon Sendlinger Tor. We attempted to check-in early, but the room wasn't available, so we stowed our luggage for 4 Euro, refreshed in the restrooms, and then headed out for breakfast at VOLLATHS. I had porridge, a warm gnarly beast topped with berries and mint. Just what i needed. The coffee was small and serviceable.

  We then aimlessly wandered into and around the Old Town. It was a stunning day - low 20's, windless, and a wide sunny blue sky. Being a Sunday, most of the shops were closed, and the streets were surprisingly quiet. The jet lag hadn't yet taken hold, and we blissfully meandered amongst magnificent masterful buildings that proudly displayed their dignified age. We paused at Marienplatz to take in the glory of the Rathausturm before continuing on toward the English Garden to which we never arrived. We detoured to Hoftgarten, which prompted an obligatory Starbucks coffee. This led us to cross paths with a sizeable street market of food stalls and temporary beer halls. We followed up with wellness bowls for lunch at dean&david in the university district before continuing on to Alte Pinakothek, a gallery literally bursting with medieval paintings, including Madonna and Child by Leonardo.

  At this point, we were growing tired, so we returned to the hotel, where we checked in, showered, and regrouped sufficiently to head out again to Thai Mama for dinner. The Pad Thai was the best i have eaten. Fresh and with oomph. I considered a walk through the Alter Südfriedhof cemetery, but the rain made an appearance, so we decided to call it. We attempted to watch a TV show and read, both without success, as extreme tiredness took hold, and we brutally fell asleep at 7:45pm. Day one was done.

2024-07-14

• Weekend trip to Sydney to see Macy Gray in concert at the Enmore Theatre. Stayed at a beaut AirBnB in Newtown. Food highlights include Chicken Peppercorn Pasta at the Italian Bowl, Prawn Pad Thai, Beef Panang Curry, and Chicken Chilli with Hot Basil at the enormous Thai Pothong, a Veggie Toastie at The Copper Mill at Alexandria, and two separate visits to One Another Cafe back in Newtown for brunch - dishes included Pan Fried Brussels with Shitake Mushrooms, Marinated Feta on Toast with Pickled Turmeric Fennel, Roast Beetroot Salad, and the Artichoke Sandwich. Delicious. And of course, the obligatory stop off for the world's best coffee at Campos.

2023-10-02

• Final day. Packed, tidied the apartment, and slowly walked up to Murrma for our last morning coffee.

  Checked out just before 11am and headed into Tokyo Station. Ran around like headless chickens trying to find lockers for our luggage. There were heaps installed throughout the station, but all were used. We eventually got lucky and saw a couple that were preparing to collect their bags. I hovered over them like a rash, and was able to nab the lockers ahead of the other hungry scavengers that had started to mill around. We were doubly fortunate in that the couple had been using one large and one small locker, which is exactly what we needed. And on top of that, we needed to pay in cash, and we had just the right amount of coin. The gods were smiling on us.

  We then trotted off to a small flea market that was operating not far from the station. Remarkably, it looked like every other flea market.

  We then went looking for a lunch spot - and were surprised to find most of the local restaurants closed. I guess it was a Sunday afternoon. However, we stumbled on a cute pub that had a really fun atmosphere. It was named 眞花 - which apparently translates as Rice Field of Virtue. All the staff yelled out in unison each time someone entered, and the same when they left. And the food was sensational. We had 4 shared plates - fried chicken, an omelette, sashimi, and yakisoba. I also had a beer with sake. Surprisingly nice. It was a really enjoyable experience, and a great way to close out the holiday.

  We wandered around the shops for a couple of hours before finishing up with a matcha green tea and muffin at Dean and Deluca.

  Then we caught the monorail to the airport. Absolutely smashed our way through check-in, security, and immigration, and found ourselves with a couple of hours to kill on the other side. I smothered myself in Tom Ford fragrance - Tuscan Leather - and we used the last of our Suica currency on dinner from a vending machine.

  We eventually boarded, and we were concerned to see a sub-one year old baby across the aisle. We both had flashbacks to a return flight from Bali where a small child screamed ceaselessly the entire way. Fortunately this baby didn't make a sound. Literally slept through.

  We both watched the new John Farnham documentary - Finding the Voice - and hoed into dinner. I went the pork, Megan the chicken. Both were delicious. I then shut my eyes and pretended to sleep for 5 hours until we were woken for breakfast - bacon and eggs. Unfortunately reheated egg never holds up to the promise - but it was ok.

  Landed in Sydney and other than a ridiculously long wait for our luggage, we passed through the airport without much fuss. Grabbed a coffee from Ooosh Oregano Bakery and then boarded the Murray's bus back to Canberra. I listened to the latest Casefile podcast and once more pretended to sleep. It was a pretty chill few hours.

  And with that, the holiday is done. A mighty grand time was had by all.

2023-10-07

• Second last day. How quickly it has passed. But how distant our first day.

  The usual drill in the morning, and then onward to Kagurazaka. A quaint little area with a strong French influence - lots of French cafes and cute alleyways. We had brunch at Paul. A sweet little French bakery. We both had baguette sandwiches and shared a natural yeast bagel with cranberry and pecan nuts.

  We eventually wandered our way up to Akha Ama Coffee - and wow, did it deliver. Beautiful location (lower story of a residential building), super friendly staff, and a chill vibe. We also shared a fig and walnut brownie. So good.

  We then caught the train across to Ueno. Massive culture shock. From the quiet European themed streets of Kagurazaka to buzzing market alleys swarming with people. A mix of retail and food stalls demanding attention.

  We settled on Hakata Ramen Ichiban for lunch. Beautiful broth, plentiful side salad, only $10. A steal. Filled me to the top.

  After lunch, we strolled through Ueno Park, and ended up watching a few innings of a local baseball game. Sat right against the fence where the action was unfolding. A real treat.

  At this point we both felt the onset of post-ramen fatigue and decided to call it a day. We caught the train back home, dropping in at the local supermarket to pick up supplies for dinner.

  And so it was, we spent our last full day eating dinner while sitting on the floor of the apartment, sharing plates of mackerel, pork katsu, tuna sushi, and Okonomiyaki, all served with a side of chardonnay and beer. It has been fun.

2023-10-06

• Coffee. Porridge. Coffee.

  We then walked to Shinjuku via Shinjuku Central Park. Did some chin ups and fussed over some dogs. Otherwise the park wasn't anything to write home about.

  Continued on into the city centre where we had sandwiches and shared a sushi box from a Family Mart. Ate from a sunny bench on a busy street corner. Despite being in the thick of it, the city was strangely quiet. Busy but quiet. Could have watched the world slip by for hours. It was all strangely peaceful.

  Megan searched Zara and I did a dash through Bic Camera before moving onto Shinjuku National Garden. This park upped the game and imposed a $5 cover charge. It was a sprawling space, quite pretty in parts, and a great place to lounge around. It even housed a Starbucks, so we bought some coffees and kicked back on the grass and enjoyed the calm surrounds.

  Upon leaving the park we had lunch at BOWLS Cafe - a tasty set donburi meal with brown rice tea and a mini dessert for good measure.

  The next stop was Kichijōji - apparently the most desirable place to live in Tokyo. We wondered why. But not for long. Immediately got sucked into the spectacle of the Bio-ral supermarket, b bursting with a never ending supply of healthy and mouth watering food options. Then onward to Inokashira Park. This place didn't hold back. It had it all: stunning scenery, open spaces, dense woodlands, cute bridges, winding paths, gym equipment, a 400m running track (which I ran in good time), a baseball field, a zoo, dogs galore, etc. You get the idea. We literally got lost in the place. Once we escaped, we found ourselves back at Bio-ral where we picked up bento boxes for dinner. Unlike other areas, there was ample outside seating along the streets, so we pulled up a table for some alfresco dining.

  The plan was to catch a train home, but we kept getting sidetracked in cute stores, side alleys, and food malls. We were like kids in a candy shop. Megan picked up a rice cake dessert (4 balls on a stick), but I decided to hold out for yogurt and fruit back at the apartment. Eventually we made a break for it, boarded the train and headed for home. Another great day.

2023-10-05

• Coffee, porridge, then a walk up the road to Murrma for another coffee.

  Caught the train to Kōenji where we wandered the side streets around the station, bedazzled by the array of small restaurants, coffee shops, and reasonably priced second hand stores. Megan and I both picked up new hats, and could have collected many more items if it wasn't for our exemplary self control.

  We had a great coffee at INCredible COFFEE (capitalisation important) and an absolute stellar lunch at Gokusai - mapo tofu with A5 rank Japanese black beef made with authentic Sichuan techniques. We were the only two in the tiny restaurant, and watched as the chef prepared our meal. Really special.

  We continued to wander until we were overloaded on second hand stores. We then returned to the Una Coffee cafe under Art Hotels Shibuya for a hot matcha with a side of chocolate slice and a blueberry and cream cheese scone. Super sweet.

  We returned home for a quick break before heading out to Food Hirose - a small family owned restaurant in our neighbourhood. Literally run from two rooms at the front of their house which sat at the end of a quiet cul de sac. Megan had the salmon set menu, and I opted for the chicken. Great food in a great atmosphere. A splendid day.

2023-10-04

• After the usual morning routine we planned on enjoying a (second) morning coffee at Murrma. However, we passed Get Better along the way, a cute hipster cafe that looked like it was worth a visit. The coffee carried hipster prices, but it was solid, although not on the same level as Murrma. We also enjoyed a raisin and red bean paste toasted sandwich. Super tasty.

  We then caught the metro to Naka-meguro, an area south of Shibuya that is renown for its cute cafes and homewares stores. The area did not disappoint. Super pretty, and so many wonderful boutiques that were priced well beyond our means, but which still made for delightful browsing. We paid a visit to the Sato Sakura Museum (an art gallery) that had a range of artworks that focused on female beauty and cherry blossoms. It made for a perfect respite from the light rain that had started to fall. Afterwards we made our way to the Starbucks Reserve Roastery, one of only five in the world. It may sound odd to say, but it was a real highlight. Four levels with a whopping big copper plated roastery that rose up like a phoenix in the middle of the store. We had a coffee and a super delicious pastrami sandwich, and just generally roamed around the building. So many side hustles were happening. Coffee with whisky. Exotic teas. Pizza! A real side show. We didn't leave until after 2:30pm, which made finding a lunch time restaurant a challenge, so we grabbed some items from the Tokyu Store grocer. An almost unlimited array of pre-prepared food items to choose from - I went with a chili fried chicken breast and a sauteed beef bento box.

  Feeling satiated, we wandered across to the neighbouring Daikan-Yama, also known as the Little Brooklyn of Tokyo. It was also jam packed with cute stores that were priced for the elite, although we did find one bargain shop where I bought a long sleeve tee. There was some seriously cool architecture in the area, like the newly finished Forestgate development.

  The final stop of the day was at Shibuya for dinner. But first, Megan dropped into Shibuya 109 and I climbed a never ending flight of stairs within Bic Camera. Afterward we went to CityShop Noodle for dinner where we were served up enormous fresh salads (I also opted for kale and spinach pasta noodles). It was really good.

  Then we caught the good old community bus home. Another superb day.

2023-10-03

• We decided over dinner last night to ditch the day trip we had planned to Niko. Too long on the train to see a few temples. We were keen to escape the city though, and elected to take a hike up Mount Takao. Only a little over an hour from where we were staying, it seemed like a good option.

  But first, we dropped into the bakery under Art Hotels Shibuya for coffee and the most amazing mushroom and cheese toast.

  Took the train to Takaosanguchi Station near Mount Takao and began the 600 meter ascent. Didn't sound that high, and we took trail 1, which was the designated "easy" path, but bloody hell, this thing rose up like a cliff. We were both walking like grandparents by the time we reached half way. We made it to the top in around 90 minutes, and powered back down in under the hour. It was an unexpectedly great walk. Really beautiful landscape, a paved path the entire way, plenty of amenities, a large temple to explore, and lots of other interesting side hustles, including a view back over Tokyo, and an even better view of the majestic Mount Fuji.

  We looked at a few options for lunch when we returned, but many of the restaurants were closed as it was a Tuesday, and smaller shops tend to close on Mondays and Tuesdays. We ended up grabbing some food from a "My Basket" supermarket on the way back home. I had a salad with mackerel and rice. Insanely cheap and top notch quality.

  Rested at the apartment before heading out to dinner. We wanted to eat local, and for reasons unknown, most of the nearby restaurants are Italian or Indian. We went with the latter, and ate at Mini India, a small (seating 6) family run establishment around a 15 minute walk away. We both went with one of the set dinner meals; mine included two curries, rice, salad, a drink (mango lassie), and what was quite possibly the world's largest naan bread. Wonderful atmosphere. Wonderful food.

  We picked up some chocolate and coffee from a Maruestu Petit supermarket on the way home. Then settled in for an early night.

2023-10-02

• Awoke just after 6am in readiness to visit the Tokyo Fish Market. Despite our eager beginnings, things didn't entirely go to plan. We first arrived at the "Outer Market", which we discovered is a general purpose market, and not the place to view the overnight catch. We quickly pivoted, and moved on to the site of the daily tuna auction. This is held in a new purpose-built building in Toyosu. The building is vast, but almost entirely composed of never ending hallways. There is also a large auditorium where the inbound fish are displayed, and a pitiful afterthought of an observation deck with tiny windows that teased a glimpse of the auditorium floor below. The good news that came from arriving at 8:30am was that we avoided the queues. The bad news is that all the fish had long since left the building, and with the exception of several forklifts and one man with a hose, the place was deserted. Not the type to give up easily, we marched across to the "intermediate fish market". Not sure what to make of the name, but it at least seemed to resemble what we once walked through many years ago on our last visit to Japan - aisle upon aisle of seafood for wholesale purchase. The difference this time around was that the entire area was inaccessible to unauthorised buyers, and we were once again relegated to looking down from above via tiny porthole observation windows that dutifully provided a view of almost nothing.

  We gave up, hungry and tired, and walked onward to the teamLabs Planets exhibition for which we had tickets. Megs grabbed some Vietnamese spring rolls from Lawsons along the way. She also picked up some takeaway coffees from Na Cafe whilst I waited for the 10am admission slot to open. The exhibit was amazing - a full-body immersive experience that leveraged sight, sounds, touch and smell to invoke a whirlwind of excitement and awe. We enjoyed it so much, we broke all the rules and went through a second time.

  Afterwards, we made our way into Ginza and had an incredible ramen at Shinamen Hashigo. We then wandered through the streets, meandering in and out of stores that took our interest. Unexpected highlights included Abercrombie and Fitch and a shop that charged $110 for a slice of cake. We finished up with matcha lattes from Starbucks before returning home for a break.

  Feeling rested, we caught the bus into Shibuya in the evening where we had dinner at a cute pub named Kawaraya. The mackerel with salt and the chicken with green onion were sensational. The natta salad we ordered on a whim turned out exactly as Google described: slimy, smelly and an acquired taste - which I don't plan on acquiring.

2023-10-01

• Another steady morning routine. Pretend packet coffee and porridge at home before we walked up to Murrma, our new favourite cafe for a second coffee. Owl man was there again, this time with another owl (he is the custodian of two).

  We continued onward to Yoyogi Park, where we fussed like expectant grandparents over all the dogs. Yes, we intentionally visited a dog park. Dogs aside, Yoyogi is a fascinating area, and we were fortunate to be there on a Sunday morning, as apparently that's when the park is in full swing. We saw yoga, spikeball (volleyball where a ball is bounced off a small trampoline), a christian choir, headstands, frisbee, odd dancing, picnics, etc. Also saw a depressingly long queue for food handouts - comprised mostly of elderly men.

  After walking through the park we stopped off at Camelback for a coffee and sandwich. The coffee was solid, but the sandwich was next level. We sat on a bench out the front and watched the day go by. It was great.

  Then on to Shinjuku where we wandered through the streets before stopping for lunch at the CoCo Ichibanya Curry House in Omoide Yokochō (a cute alleyway of restaurants). I had a Japanese version of a massaman curry. Tasted nothing like what we have back home - heavy on the cinnamon - but super nice.

  Feeling satisfied, we continued our stroll which included winding through Golden Gai - a series of narrow grungy streets composed entirely of bars.

  More walking. More browsing. Until our feet demanded that we sit. Which is harder than you might think. So many stalls to buy amazing food and yet so few places to place a bum. Fortunately, after some expert hovering, we snagged a seat a Starbucks where I enjoyed an iced matcha tea.

  Finally made our way home via the local supermarket where once again we picked up some specials for dinner.

2023-09-30

• Finally, a slow morning. Rose at 7:30am and didn't leave the apartment till after 9. Walked up to Murrma Coffee. And oh my, what a great way to start the day. It was superb. An added bonus was the owl sitting at the front door. An actual owl. Sitting quietly with his guardian who was up for a chat.

  We then caught the bus into Shibuya where we aimlessly wandered the streets. We dipped in and out of some spectacular stores and generally did our best to avoid the never ending swarm of people. We spent time at the Miyashita Park and Parco shopping centres, and had lunch at Ramen Tajima. It was a solid ramen, but it had nothing on the creamy goodness of Ichiran.

  We wandered onward to Harajuku and were literally overwhelmed by the sheer number of people. Had to make a break for a side street at one point, like someone drowning in the river reaching for an outstretched oar. Even so, the entire experience - the people, the fashions, the unusual shops, it was all thoroughly interesting. It would have been even better without the throng.

  Feeling parched, and in need of something green, we stopped into the Tokyo Juice Bar, and despite the name, had acai, fruit and granola bowls. Bloody sensational.

  We then wandered some more, passing through a cute garden named Nonoaoyama Forest, and onto Omotesando Avenue where we drooled over the BE@RBRICK figurines at Medicom Toys.

  Then we caught a long and winding route home on a community bus. Once again, packed in like sardines, it was kinda fun. I then darted over to the Summit Shubiya Honmachi supermarket where I picked up some top notch specials for dinner. Now calling it a night.

2023-09-29

• Early start. Caught the train, and then a bus, and then a moderate length walk to Ryoan-ji Temple - also known as the location of Japan's most famous rock garden. We arrived at the crack of 8am, and with the exception of one other, we had the place to ourselves. The temple grounds were peaceful, and rustically beautiful, but the rock garden was something else. I could easily have sat in front of it for hours. Utterly mesmerizing.

  We caught the bus back into town - it really is a long way out to the temple - and made a b-line for Arabica. Unfortunately, it was 9:45, and the store didn't open till 10:30, so we dropped into Starbucks instead. Then back to the apartment where we picked up our gear. Tried to hail an Uber, but there was nothing in sight, so we caught the bus into Kyoto Station - which turned out to be a smart option, as the bus was cheap, and nowhere near as busy as we assumed.

  We bought some ekiben for the journey and boarded the Shinkansen. It was a great ride up to Tokyo. Lots of leg room. Nice air. I listened to Casefile along the way.

  It was relatively straightforward to find our way to the AirBnB, although it's not exactly near any metro/train/bus stations.

  After settling in for a bit, we took a 40 minute walk to Shimokitazawa. This is a hipster-flavoured neighbourhood that has the highest density of second hand stores on the planet. I made that last bit up, but surely it is true. We stopped in at the most quaint pizza restaurant named Motoazabu Marché. We shared a delicious plate of roast veges and a pizza topped with a mountain of lettuce. It was incredible!

  We wandered some more through the trendy side alleys of Shimokitazawa before returning home via train + bus. We were truly exhausted and both in need of a sleep in.

2023-09-28

• The alarm did its thing at 6am. The usual routine followed. Coffee and porridge. We then boarded the train to the Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine. The plan was to walk the length of the torii gate path from the shrine to the top of Mount Inari. The peak is only 233 metres, but the path runs for 4 km, and typically takes a few hours. We did it in around 2. Apparently the walk takes you through 10,000 gates, and it boggles the mind to say, but Wikipedia reports the Inari Shrine is home to a staggering 32,000 sub-shrines. And although we didn't inspect them all personally, we made a fair attempt. The torii gates aside, the walk up the mount is absolutely spectacular. It started off insanely busy, despite the fact that we began the ascent before 8am (intentionally seeking to avoid the crowds and the heat), but the reality is most people don't make it far along the path.

  After the walk, we caught the train back a couple of stops to Tofukuji Station and had a Japanese take on a western breakfast at Cafe January. The bread was thick and sans butter, and the coffee was surprisingly good.

  We then road the bus up north to the Silver Pavilion (don't be fooled - it ain't silver as they never got around to that part). We grabbed a top-notch coffee at Drip and Drop Coffee after disembarking. The pavilion itself is nice, but the standout is the zen gardens in which it is situated. Really quite something. On our way back to the bus we picked up a green tea cream puff. That was also quite something.

  We returned home for a brief respite before catching the bus into Kyoto Station (packed in like sardines for the ride). We decided to check out the Yodobashi Camera Multimedia Centre. And oh my. Could have camped out there for a week. The place really did have it all. We even spent time cuddling a LOVOT robot.

  The efforts of the day started to take their toll and I was close to a breakdown. I blamed the lack of salt and quickly devoured a pack of chips. Feeling reinvigorated, we headed back into the centre of town to have an early dinner at Sen-no-Kaze Ramen. Despite arriving at 5:40pm, there was already a long line. We put our names on the list and waited 30 minutes, but eventually realised we risked starvation before being seated. We took a chance on Oumiya-Seiuemon - a soup curry restaurant around the corner. Somewhat to our surprise, it was really tasty.

  Feeling satisfied, we walked home and decided to venture to the public baths (Atarashi-yu) located a mere 100m down the road from where we were staying. Only $5 to enter, it was an old-school onsen, with stark white lighting, retro tiles, aging and overweight men, and a yakuza thrown in for good measure. It even had an electric bath - as in the kind that shocks you. I stuck to the very hot spa, the even hotter sauna, and the plunge pool. It was a lot of fun.

  I have since convinced myself that the lump in my upper thigh (which is now becoming painful to the touch) is actually an infected inguinal lymph node, most likely swollen due to a bacterial infection in my left leg. Perhaps this started with a toe nail fungal infection, or even the tinea that is raging on my left foot. Not ideal, and of course, I am not a doctor, and the self-diagnosis could be wrong, but I feel better than if I had convinced myself it was a blood clot. Let's hope Megan doesn't need to call for an ambulance using the number that I preemptively sent to her.

2023-09-27

• Another early morning start, this time with the help of some porridge. We road the bus to the Okazaki Shrine (dedicated to rabbits, which I suspect symbolise fertility). We then walked along the Philosopher's Path to Nanzen-ji Temple. A beautiful space fronted by an enormous gate, and home to the Suirokaku Water Bridge (gorgeous brick aqueduct). We paid to go inside the Hojo Garden and enjoyed the peaceful serenity of the surrounds.

  We then continued our walk all the way to Kyoto Ninenzaka Yasaka Chaya - a Starbucks located in a traditional Japanese house with tatami seating. Feeling refreshed we visited the Kōdai-ji Temple. Another serene and calming abode that provided a welcome escape from the heat.

  We returned back to the apartment via a Family Mart where we picked up a few items for lunch.

  Megan decided to head into the Anytime Fitness gym down town for a workout. I tagged along, but opted for a stroll of the city shops instead. Visited Uniqlo, Maruzen (a large bookstore) and several second hand shops.

  Dinner was at Gion Tanto. Arrived just after 5pm to beat the crowds. Smart move by us. Walked in without a wait (other than the time it took to remove our shoes). We both chose the fried soba noodles - I went for the "special" and Megan opted for pork and kimchi. It was fantastic. Really good to be able to toss, slice, and dice the food on the hot plate built into the bench in front of us.

  Returned home and felt too zonked to do anything further.

2023-09-26

• Woke at 6am with support from the alarm. We road the metro and then a train to Arashiyama to join an early morning bike tour through the region. A bus-stop breakfast of yoghurt and a sandwich before we began. The bike tour was amazing. The guide Ray was such a kind and thoughtful host. The route took us through the Arishayama bamboo forest and along an assortment of backstreet roads. Other points of interest included The Garden of Hundred Flowers, Mikami Shrine, the Saga Toriimoto Preserved Street, Seiryō-ji Temple (where we traced Japanese characters with ink), and Kimono Forest. After the tour, we stopped for a coffee at Arabica next to the Togetsu-kyo Bridge.

  We caught the train into the Nishiki Market where Megan ate an octopus on a stick with a head full of quail egg, and I munched on a red ginger fish cake. We followed up with lunch at Ichiran Ramen. There was a wait to be seated but it went by quickly. It was such a unique experience. You pre-order your items via a ticket machine, with further customisations made on a piece of paper that is handed to the server through a small window once seated. You don't actually see the staff, and you're separated from the people next to you by dividers. Most signs had English translations so it's easy to understand and follow the instructions. The ramen itself was so delicious and creamy and the noodles were perfectly cooked. When done, we staggered home in the growing heat and regrouped under the air conditioning.

  We headed back out around 5pm, and wandered through Maruyama Park and on through the side streets and back alleys of Gion.

  As night descended we joined the queue outside of Chao Chao Sanjo Kiyamachi, where we waited for about 40 minutes for a spot at the bench. The tiny restaurant is famous for their dumplings. We decided on the set meal for two, which included pickled cucumber and edamame as starters, followed by chicken wings, and then 32 dumplings of 3 types. Megan also had sake + soda and I had an Asahai beer. It was super tasty and a fun experience, and only $35. We then returned home for a soak in the bath and some bedtime reading.

2023-09-25

• Woke early and floundered around in bed until about 7:30am. Sauntered off to breakfast where I put in another strong performance. Afterwards we packed, checked out and stowed the bags at the hotel, and then caught the metro to the Kuromon Ichiba Market. There was a good offering of exotic seafood on display, and plenty of street food stalls, including the largest crabs claws I have ever witnessed.

  We then continued on to Den Den - the region that blends electronics, anime, manga, and other alternative paradigms. We inspected a Real Doll up close, were freaked out by incredibly disturbing manga pornography covers, tested a collection of high end headphones, played with mechanical keyboards, drooled over model train stations and realistic depictions of battlefields, fired up a few vibrators, and got lost amongst isle after isle of figurines and anime trading cards.

  We retraced our steps back to the Kuromon Market, where Megan devoured an eel on a stick (ugami for the educated). We ate lunch at a tiny family run restaurant with great food and the perfect atmosphere. The shop name translates to The Taste of Flowers, but Google doesn't know squat about it. Anyway, we had "modern" seafood okonomiyaki (Osaka styled pancakes) and what I think was fried udon noodles with seafood, but it may have been soba, which shows you how much I know.

  We then slowly walked through Dontobori, snapping some shots of the mega billboards, before arriving at Amerika-Mura (American Village). We inspected a few alternative clothing stores, including an upstairs vintage gem that was not for the claustrophobic.

  We enjoyed a walking Starbacks coffee as we meandered back to the metro, returned to the hotel to collect our luggage, and then boarded the train to Kyoto. Only a 45 minute hall on the Keihan Line, and at $4 a head, an absolute bargain. We disembarked only 600m from our new abode. After checking in, we put up our feet for a bit, as the long days and short nights are starting to take their toll. I am also increasingly anxious about the large lump on the inside of my left upper thigh, which seemingly appeared out of nowhere a couple of days ago. It's about 6-7cm across and perhaps 1cm high (at it's worst), although it seems to settle somewhat overnight when I am off my feet for an extended period. It's soft and painless, which is apparently good, but Google insists it is a blood clot, or something else that will surely kill me imminently, and God forbid I die in a foreign country. I couldn't do that to Megan.

  We decided to eat in, so picked up some bento boxes and an assortment of other goodies from the Fresco supermarket just up the road. I then tried to rekindle the onsen feeling by soaking in a hot bath. Will read a few chapters of The Beach before turning in for an early night, as we have a rooster sharp start tomorrow morning, and need to be on the road by 6:40am.

2023-09-24

• Woke and immediately moved to the hotel breakfast bar. A broad selection of seemingly random items were on offer, from mackerel, to carrot smoothies, fried chicken, to silk tofu. I devoured it all, with 2 coffees, a hot chocolate, and a milk fruit cocktail.

  With no fixed plans, we decided to wander the streets north of the hotel. We walked the length of the Tenjinbashisuji mall - the longest covered shopping arcade in the world. It held an eclectic assortment of small stores, and much to our surprise, upon following one of the side offshoots, we stumbled upon Umai-ya. Run by Mr. Kita, it is one of Osaka's oldest takoyaki (fried octopus balls) stalls. We had learned of it from the Street Food series on Netflix. We ordered 8 that were made by Mr Kita and his mum as we watched. Crunchy on the outside, soft and gooey on the inside. The texture and flavours were - as they say around here - best. From there, we meandered through the side streets of Nakazakicho. A hipster area blending family homes with cafes and small alternative fashion boutiques. We then found our way to Umeda. It was large, bright, and thronging with people. Megan enjoyed sushi from the basement foodcourt of Hankyu before we worked our way back to the hotel around 2:30pm to regroup before the evening walking tour.

  The tour was terrific. Just over 3 hours long, with another hour for dinner, it was a fun, and very informative introduction to Osaka, but also more broadly, Japanese culture. The highlight for me was walking through the red light district. Two streets lined with small "tea shops" consisting of a madam that sat at the entrance, with a young hostess behind her. For around 1,600 yen you could "order tea" to be served by the hostess upstairs. Mirrors were placed on each side of the shop entrances that allowed the madam to see approaching customers. This provided time for the girls to cover their faces if a woman was about to pass. This technique was adopted by some girls as a form of anonymity - mitigating their exposure to anyone who wasn't a serious customer.

  Then back to the hotel spa for a full service routine of soaking, scrubbing, and deep decompression.

2023-09-23

• Alarm sounded at 7am. We opened the day with a coffee at Starbucks. And then took a short morning stroll around the backstreets surrounding Sangsu Station. We collected our gear and retraced our steps from a week prior back to the airport. Check-in was smooth, although it did take a while to progress through the immigration queue. Megan had a final Eggdrop for lunch, whilst I opted for a chicken burger from Burger Hunter. Our flight was delayed by 40 minutes, so we aimlessly tried on sunglasses to pass the time.

  The flight to Osaka was short - only about 1 hour 20 minutes - and we passed through passport control in an instant; in fact, there was not a single passenger waiting to be processed when we arrived. We collected our gear, slid through customs, withdrew 30,000 yen from an ATM, and then found our way to the train. The ride into the city was around 50 minutes. We were both zonked and arrived at the hotel in a minor state of delirium. Fortunately, the accommodation proved to be amazing, with a menu of nice extras on offer, like arrival dessert, free tea, coffee, and hot matcha, free ice cream and probiotic drinks, massage chairs, and a next level spa facility, including seated shower areas, sauna, hot tubs, large spa, and even a plunge pool.

  After smashing back some matcha, and recharging with a massage, we walked into Dontobori. It was about 40 minutes along a flat straight path. Fascinating to see the city evolve as we progressed into the craziness of the down town area. The narrow streets were bursting with people (it was a Saturday night), and to be frank, we were a little overwhelmed. There were a vast number of restaurants, many of which looked like they required a mortgage just to fund the entree, and others that had lines of patiently waiting customers that stretched off into the distance. We opted for a cute little restaurant named Kushinobo Osaka Hozenji. We sat at the bar and ordered grilled chicken and rice, beef, raw egg and rice, and a side of grilled eggplant. We also had a (mandatory) cocktail each. The food was nice, but tiredness and several minor mishaps, like trying to order online despite failing internet connectivity, an "entrance" fee, and a compulsory drink order per person, spun a negative vibe across the experience.

  We caught the metro back to the hotel and did our best to quell our disquiet with an hour in the spa. And wow, did it work wonders. I had the most enjoyable seated shower of my life, followed by the most intense sauna (with a side of sultry Japanese teenage drama playing on a big screen TV - yes there was a TV in the sauna). A quick dip in the plunge pool, and then without a doubt, the most relaxed 10 minutes of my life, alone in a Japanese hot tub, face caressed by the cool breeze gently blowing in from the open window, while I soaked in the steamy mineral waters. It was utter bliss.

2023-09-22

• I am writing this retrospectively (by a few days) and my Pooh Bear brain is struggling to recall details, so excuse the brevity and possible inaccuracy of this entry.

  We started the day with a coffee and scone (Korean style) on the third floor of The Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf (literally next door to our accommodation). We then caught the metro into Gyeongbokgung Palace. We joined the 11am free walking tour which was really informative. The Palace grounds were extensive and the story of the dynasty was both interesting and sad. I am glad we took the tour, as the buildings, although impressive, formed somewhat of a mono culture, and having seen one, I felt like I had seen them all.

  We then walked through the side streets to the west of the Palace where we had the most amazing ramen in a tiny little shop named Ramyun Jum Bbang. Instant noodles in a home made broth, with a few extra ingredients for good measure. It was delectable.

  After lunch we had a relaxing iced coffee at DIRTCOFEE. We then walked through Bukchon Hanok Village before venturing into Myeong-dong. Mad, without being crazy, we dipped in and out of stores and weaved our way through the food stalls. We sampled mochi, fried chicken, grilled octopus, a red bean croissant, and an obscenely large fairy floss ball on a stick (gifted by staff at the Lush store).

  We then returned to Hongdae for all you can eat bibimpab. A steal for $8.

2023-09-21

• Up and at them nice and late. Across to Starbucks for a venti. It's been a while. Then across the road to the old favourite - The Greek Bear. I decided on the blueberry and mango combination this time around.

  We caught the metro to Gupabal and transferred to a bus for the final leg to Bukhansan National Park. And so began the 4 hour 15 minute assault of Baegundae Summit. Up there with the most physically demanding of our hikes. But worth the struggle. The view from the top across the city was like nothing I have seen before. A birds eye view of the residential building clusters that stretched out to the horizon.

  We collapsed onto the metro for the return trip and instantly killed the cognition switch. Snapped back to life a short time later, only to realise we had overshot by a few stations and needed to retrace our steps. A serious case of summit fever.

  On returning to Sangsu Station we briefly searched for a coffee shop that didn't exist. We also received advice from a helpful young man that called in assistance from a friend when we asked for an alternate recommendation. The phone-a-friend noted that Hongdae was where the very very young people hung out, and that a gentleman and lady (presumably us) were better served by the more dignified establishments of nearby Mapo-gu. Despite the kind advice, we found an amazing spot named Perception. The interior was stunning, the coffee on point, and the entire experience was rather perfect. Something about the caffeine melding with extreme tiredness, the suburban life vignettes unfolding on the streets outside, and the music (exile by Tay-tay and Bon Iver). It all just worked.

  We completed the reawakening by returning to the apartment for a hot shower, personal grooming, and a load of washing.

  We then headed into Gwangjang Market for dinner. Having learnt nothing from the previous night with Mangwon Market, where we solemnly declared to double check any assumptions before undertaking a similar venture, we arrived to find the market closed. Little surprised by our own stupidity, we remained calm, and decided to try a nearby restaurant that rated highly online. And lo behold, on circling the market, we discovered that the street food section, which resided on the far side of the block, was open and in full swing. It seems only the non-food stalls were closed on Thursdays.

  Doubling down on our good luck, we landed a seat at Cho Yonsoon's Korean Handmade Noodle Stall (the one featured in the Netflix series on Street Food). We got to sit in the middle of the action, and watched as the noodles we later ate were rolled and sliced in front of us. The dumplings were divine, and for reasons we don't quite understand, we received special treatment, including a free refill of our bowls, and free takeaway honey dessert pancakes. I suspect we were thought to be celebrity food influencers.

  Now home, regrouping before a big day tomorrow.

2023-09-20

• Woke to rain. Altered our plans - opting to visit Insadong instead of World Cup Park.

  Had a breakfast bagel and coffee at Paris Baguette (located on the corner of our block). Caught the metro to Insadong (Jonga 3 Station) and casually wandered the side streets and back alleys. So many small galleries and bespoke arts and crafts stores nestled between tiny family run restaurants.

  We enjoyed some super tasty egg bread on route to an amazing coffee at Komfortabel Anguk. And then somehow, probably against our better judgement, we found ourselves at the Color Pool Museum, which is a deceptive name for an elaborate configuration of obscenely bright rooms and random paraphernalia purposefully arranged to encourage outrageous selfies.

  To replenish our reserves we had dumplings in broth at Bukchon Son-mandu. Spectacular.

  Then home to regroup before heading out to Mangwon Markets. This was probably a misstep, as the market isn't known for street food, but we did eat a delicious spicy tomato rice noodle soup. Megan also had sushi, and I ate a malnourished, and slightly suspicious deep fried chicken chili bear on a stick.

  We then walked up to Hongdae where the action was at. Watched some street buskers, browsed the shops, spoke to some locals, and soaked up the vibe. We then devoured a red bean bingsu (shaved ice) at Sulbing, followed by a torched marshmallow ice cream bought from a street vendor.

  We walked home, and tucked ourselves into bed after 11:30pm. Dirty night owls.

2023-09-19

• Left the apartment after 9am. Had breakfast at The Greek Bear around the corner. Blueberry and banana yogurt bowl with granola. Road the metro all the way to Gangnam.

  Popped into several stores like Kakao Friends, Line Friends, Adidas, Vans, and Muji (which was packing an amazing produce section). Had a bite to eat and an ice latte at Eggdrop before walking to Eonju Station and riding the rest of the way to Bongeunsa. Went to the Starfield Library in Coex Mall, and enjoyed possibly the best coffee of my life at % Arabica. Wandered though the basement food hall of the Hyundai Department Store. Then had a late lunch at Misari Milbit Chogyeguksu back at Coex. Apparently they gave us the wrong order, so we ended up with 3 meals for the price of 2 - as if the gods were testing my commitment to restrained eating.

  Visited Bongeunsa Temple - an active Buddhist temple founded in the 700's. It was quite beautiful, and fully operational, with monks wandering the grounds and services in full swing. We relaxed at the tea house where I had a magnolia tea and Megan a chrysanthemum tea, complemented with with red bean biscuits on the side.

  We then caught the metro to Apgujeong Rodeo and walked along K-Star Road. Fortuitously stumbled into the MCM luxury fashion house store that was hosting the Empathy and Coexistence exhibition from designer Yinka Ilori. We had all six levels (which included a roof garden) to ourselves.

  Walked along Apgujeong-ro and then Nonhyeon-ro towards the Gentle Monster eyeware store (that masquerades as a gallery). Stopped in at the Aland clothing store along the way. Had dinner at the livfarm cafe. They grow their own lettuce in store! I had a warm salad bowl, and it was incredible.

  We then grabbed a bus to Apgujeong and walked the rest of the way to the Banpo bridge where we watched the light display (water shoots out from the side of bridge). It was touristy and tacky in a delightful way. We even had a blueberry ice cream to mark the occasion.

  Caught the metro back home. 14 hours on the go made for a sound sleep.

2023-09-18

• Rose at 8:15am. Still tired. But relaxed and functional. Walked to Analog Garden cafe for breakfast. Mighty good coffee delivered in a ceramic cone complemented with the perfect falafel wrap. Wandered the streets of Hongdae, meandering in and out of stores, feeling smothered by the cuteness of everything. Lunch was bulgogi pork and kimchi stew. If you calculate the greatness of a meal by (flavour * portion size * environment) / cost - surely this topped the scales. Back home to recharge under the aircon before embarking on a food market tour.

  The market tour wasn't really a market tour. We briefly walked through Mangwon Market on our way to sharing three meals at three separate restaurants with the other 8 members of the group. The first meal was mixed pancakes with rice wine. My personal favourite was the mung bean pancake. Next up was pork belly (Korean BBQ) with soju. All the ingredients were cooked on top of a large iron pot. And the third was Korean fried chicken and beer at Kyochon 1901. We had three types - soy, red and honey. Quite different from the fried chicken at home - crispy exterior, dry flesh, and lots of bone. The sauce was lightly infused into the crust.

  It goes without saying I peaked early. Full as a goog after the pancakes. The remaining two meals were eaten under sweet duress, which escalated to major trauma as the evening wore on. Thoughts of busted bowl and hospital emergency admissions plagued my sleep, and dawn broke with the food fever fog still strong.

  But back to the story. After dinner, but before the onset of the food sweats, we walked home along the Han River, stopping off at several outdoor public gyms that were setup along the route. Partook in a few sets of bench, squats, pull ups, etc, and even a couple of upside down hangs for good measure.

  Returned home and went to bed. It was a dark night for the soul. But on the plus side, I woke with a renewed commitment to a non-glutinous future.

2023-09-17

• Up at 4:30am. Left home at 5. Took a cab to the airport (pre-booking with Uber would have doubled the cost). Check-in was very slow, with two trainees in the making, but we had time to kill. Had a coffee from cityhill cafe. Not bad.

  The flight to Sydney was brief but smooth. Transferred across to the international airport. Check-in was quick. Passed through customs without issue. Wandered the aisles of duty-free perfume, grabbed a meal from Sumo Salad, and activated our Nomad e-sims.

  Boarding was delayed by 30min, but we made that up (plus some) in the air, and arrived ahead of schedule. The flight was calm, but 10 hours in the seat is never easy on the body. We dulled the discomfort with food on the hour. I read The Beach, listened to shoegaze and This American Life, and watched Past Lives. All good value.

  On disembarking, we quickly progressed through passport control, and after feeling certain our baggage was still 8,500km to the south, we collected our gear, walked straight through customs, and into the entrance hall. We didn't need the Advanced Entrant Quarantine Information QR code.

  Next step was to withdraw cash using our Wise card. Tried several global ATMs without success. Mild panic arrived. Tried one of the machines a third time. The gods smiled, and out popped 300,000 won. We all sighed with relief. Next we made our way to the main train platform on B1. Bought two cute T-money cards and activated each with 40,000 won.

  Spent several minutes on Kakao Maps trying to find the best way to get to our accommodation, but after finding it a little overwhelming, we jumped on a train - the AREX - that was heading to Seoul Station. On route we realised we could transfer to Line 6 at the Digital Media City station, and that would take us to Sangsu station, a mere 150m from the apartment. It was the perfect transition.

  We rose up from the metro to the open air, crossed the street and climbed the two short flights of stairs to our apartment door. A few anxious moments as we threw random combinations of numbers and symbols at the digital lock, but eventually we made sense of the instructions and landed on the right sequence. We stumbled inside the little oasis and welcomed the firm mattress with open arms.

2023-07-22

• Enjoying this 15 minute yoga session from Mady Morrison. Has become a nightly staple. Switch to the 30 minute version when it isn't a school night.

2023-06-24

• Went karting at Power Kart Raceway. Drove in two 12-lap races. Notched up my best lap time of 32.6 seconds in the second race. Very addictive. And very expensive.

2022-12-11

• I am not a goal setter. Well, not normally. I tend not to be motivated by targets. It's the process that is compelling - the act of working through a challenge, and learning something about the world, or myself, that i find interesting. With that said, a well chosen goal can be a catalyst for focus, and focus is sorely lacking from my gym sessions. So in an attempt to add some drive into the game, I have set the following "flexible" workout goals for the next 12 months: deadlift 160kg, squat 120kg, bench 100kg, and run 5km in under 21 minutes, all whilst maintaining a body weight under 70kg. On paper, these aspirations seem achievable. I am currently 69kg, deadlifted 145kg last week, and my significantly younger self once ran 5km in 20 minutes. But what do they say - past success is no guarantee of future results. Life happens, and so does ageing. Plateaus are real. And even small gains against the inevitable advance of entropy are hard. But, isn't that the point? I'll report back in 12 months.

2022-12-10

• Dinner at Akiba with friends. Hooked into the Luxe "feed me" menu.

2022-12-03

• Travelling to Narrandera for the weekend to see mum. Stopped off at Cafe on Queen for a coffee at Binalong which we enjoyed in the beautiful outdoor setting.

2022-11-28

• Went to see Nick Cave and Warren Ellis in concert at the Canberra Theatre. Part of the Carnage Tour. Unlike so many artists with enduring careers, these two have not faded into mediocrity. Anything but. Two incredibly creative souls at the top of their game.

2022-11-23

• Drove away in our new Volkswagen Golf R Line today. Ordered almost 18 months ago, but delayed due to Covid. It's packing some tech compared to our previous 2013 model Golf.

2022-11-21

• Watched The Velvet Queen at the cinema again tonight. Just as good second time around.

2022-11-20

• Leisurely morning at the cottage before driving back to Canberra. Coffee at The Post Office at Moss Vale on route.

2022-11-19

• Morning coffee at Bean Roasted in Kiama before embarking on the coastal walk to Gerringong. Quick burger at Gerringong Cafe and Takeway for lunch, then back to the cottage for an afternoon with a book, sun, and solitude.

2022-11-18

• Treating ourselves with a weekend getaway. Staying at Falls Cottage outside of Jamberoo.

2022-11-12

• Nineteenth wedding anniversary lunch at Raku. Thoroughly enjoyed the Hao San tasting menu.

2022-11-06

• Fortunate to receive a free ticket to see Professor Brian Cox perform his Horizons show at the Royal Theatre. A whirlwind tour through general relativity, black holes, Hawking radiation, Penrose diagrams, and quantum entanglement. A key question - is space and time emergent?

2022-10-26

• A relaxing evening spent at Hale Spa. Sauna, plunge pool, and a Sodashi vanilla body bliss scrub massage, followed by tea and biscuits. Hit the spot.

2022-10-08

• Taken out for lunch by our friend Kath for Megan's birthday (a belated celebration) at Contentious Character Winery in Wamboin. The portuguese chicken main course was top notch.

2022-10-01

• Family wedding in Parkes (home of the dish - where i did work experience back in the early 90s). Ceremony at the new multipurpose centre at Cooke Park. Reception at the Parkes Services Club. Bunkered in for the night at Henry Parkes Motor Inn.

2022-09-24

• Checked out the Viewfinder Exhibition at the National Library of Australia this afternoon. A really interesting and diverse collection of photos documenting the evolution of the nation since 1970.

2022-09-01

• Received the thyroid pathology results and the news is good - cancer free.

2022-08-24

• Discharged from the National Capital Private Hospital this morning after left hemithyroidectomy surgery with Associate Professor Ardalan Ebrahimi. The procedure went well. Will need to wait for the pathology results to determine if the follicular neoplasm in the removed lobe of the thyroid is a carcenoma.

2022-08-11

• Thoroughly enjoyed seeing Darren Hanlon perform at Albert Hall. Possibly the 20th time I have seen him in concert. Never disappoints. And great support from Zoe Fox.

2022-07-29

• An ultrasound revealed a lump in the left lobe of my thyroid.

2022-07-17

• Coates Pinot Noir 2021 is a fine drop.

2022-07-03

• Visited my home town of Narrandera over the weekend. Located at the junction of the Newell and Sturt highways on the Murrumbidgee River, it is the proud host of the annual TREE-mendous festival, and custodian of the largest playable guitar in the southern hemisphere. It also sports a 150 year old fig tree, a koala reserve, and around 3,500 aging humans.

2022-06-30

• Settled on our latest investment property today.

2022-06-18

• An epic banquet at the Bamiyan Afghan Restuarant in Braddon.

• A few deliberate steps I take to keep healthy:

  • 15,000 steps daily. At least 20,000 per day on the weekend.
  • Morning sunshine. Need lux for sleep regulation.
  • Regularly move about (aim for once per hour).
  • Regularly stand at my desk.
  • 8 hours sleep per night. Wake at the same time each day.
  • 4 cups of green tea per day.
  • 2 coffees per day.
  • Eat oily fish 3 times a week (e.g. salmon, sardines).
  • Eat rolled oats 3 times a week.
  • Eat 20g of raw mixed nuts per day.
  • Eat 100g natural greek yoghurt per day.
  • Eat 8g of dark chocolate (95% cocoa) per day.
  • Eat a good amount of fruit, salad, and vegetables, daily.
  • Eat red meat no more than twice per week.
  • Limit alcohol intake. Haven't had a wine in over 7 weeks.
  • 10ml fish oil daily.
  • 5ml flax seed oil daily.
  • 1000mg vitamin C daily.
  • 3000 IU vitamin D3 daily.
  • 45min weights session 6 days a week.
  • 5km run once a week.
  • Sauna twice per week (30min at 65 celsius).

  Smart choices offer no guarantee of a long or issue-free life, but it's worth trying to stack the odds in your favour.

• Had a coffee at Two Blind Mice in Curtin this morning. The place had a good vibe. And they serve wood fired pizza. Shall return.

2022-05-30

• I am a member of a gym that recently installed a two person Jacuzzi Sanctuary full spectrum infrared sauna. I have clocked up three 30 minute sessions in the past three days, and am loving it. The temperature tops out at around 67 degrees celsius, which is a decent margin below the 80 - 90 celsius of a traditional sauna, but it does the job nicely.

2022-05-25

• Finally. After too many weekends spent bouncing between open homes we managed to secure a new investment property. Bidding was via the Realtair platform (an online auction, where all bids were visible). We preferred this over the "best and final offer" approach adopted by other realtors. In the current market, where properties are advertised at prices well below the expected sale point, it's hard to guarantee a successful bid under the best and final system without the risk of making an unnecessarily elevated offer. No such risk with an auction.

2022-05-13

• Voted in the Federal election. Greens in the House of Representatives. David Pocock, then Kim Rubenstein, then Greens in the Senate.

2022-05-11

• Discovered this native utility for capturing web browser traffic from Google Chrome: chrome://net-export, which also works in Microsoft Edge. Logs can be reviewed using NetLog Viewer.

• Got the flu vaccination.

2022-05-09

• Made an offer on an investment property: 110/7 Irving Street, Phillip. Update: Didn't get it.

2022-05-04

• Drove via Lake Bumbunga on our way to Adelaide. Stopped at the Central Market for coffee at Grind Roast Masters and lunch at Simply Sarj. Caught a 4pm flight with Virgin on a Boeing 737-800 back to Canberra.

2022-05-03

• Took a morning walk through the Spring Gully Conservation Park. Followed up with a top notch coffee at Cafe 1871 in Clare. Lunch was at the Sevenhill Hotel beer garden. The center piece of the afternoon was a hot stone massage at The Beautique salon. Another afternoon run along the back roads of Mintaro. Spent the evening in a hot spa.

2022-05-02

• Walked to Martindale Hall from Mintaro. Opted for a self-guided tour of the fully adorned Georgian-style residence (built in 1880). A midday coffee at the Little Red Grape Bakery. Then a matched wine and canape tasting flight at Pauletts Winery. Followed up with a 45 minute run through the country back roads of Mintaro. Dinner at Indii of Clare - the punjabi butter chicken and saag paneer were something to behold.

2022-05-01

• A final walk along the cliffs of Willow Waters Gorge, before checking out of the eco tent, and heading into Hawker for breakfast at Flinders Food Co, where once again I got lost in the wonder of the crispy cauliflower salad. Drove south through the Clare Valley to Mintaro, where we will spend three nights at Redwood Studio. A quiet night spent soaking in the spa.

2022-04-30

• Rose early and drove to Rawnsley Park Station. Walked to Clem's Corner Lookout. Then took a 45 minute scenic flight with Chinta Air in a single engine Cessna over the Flinders Ranges. Started along Chace Range, then over Wilpena Pound, following Hycen Range over Bunyeroo Valley and Brachina Gorge, north to Parachilna Gorge, returning back over Wilpena Pound. Ate a packed lunch, and then completed the stunning four hour climb up Rawnsley's Bluff. Back to the eco tent, where we sat, happy and tired, staring intently at the campfire.

2022-04-29

• Morning coffee from the deck of the eco tent, listening to the busy wildlife, and watching as the rising sun coloured the cliffs of the surrounding peaks. Drove into Hawker for breakfast at Flinders Food Co. The crispy cauliflower salad is ridiculous. Drove to Wilpena Pound and hiked to Wangara Lookout in the misty rain. Tried to follow up with a walk though Bunyeroo Valley and Brachina Gorge, but the rain morphed the unsealed road into a mire of red clay that made the journey impossible (at least for our modest Corolla). Turned around and retreated to the eco tent.

2022-04-28

• Stopped at Barista Sista in Tanunda for a coffee as we left the Barossa. Drove through Jamestown where we ate lunch at Ek-Wi-Tee. Then onto our next stop - Flinders Bush Retreats - where we will stay for three nights in an isolated off-grid eco tent nestled in the Willow Waters Gorge. Enjoyed porterhouse and salad for dinner by the firepit, and stared in silent awe into the star-filled sky.

2022-04-27

• A morning walk followed by a coffee tasting paddle at Bean Addiction Coffee in Nuriootpa. Then a paired wine + chocolate tasting at Elderton Wines. Next up was the "feed me" lunch menu at First Drop Wines. Took a drive to Maggie Beer's Farm where we helped ourselves to some quince straight from the tree, before returning to our accommodation via Seppeltsfield. Finished up with a late afternoon walk (mostly to feel better about the generous food intake).

2022-04-26

• Started the day with a walk through the Altona CSR Landcare Reserve. Followed up with a top-notch coffee at Darling's Food With Passion Cafe in Tanunda. Hired bikes from the Information Center and road north to Nuriootpa where we had toasted baguettes for lunch at Linke's Bakehouse & Pantry. Also bought the Five Ingredient Vegan cookbook from the Cargo Collective located next door. Then onward through the wind and light rain to Angaston, where we discovered that almost everything is closed on a Tuesday. Rode back to Tanunda to drop off the bikes. Then returned to our accommodation to hunker in for the evening.

2022-04-25

• Drove to Penneshaw in the morning. Had coffee at the Fat Beagle before boarding the SeaLink ferry to the South Australian mainland. A short drive to Mypogna for lunch at the Valley of Yore. Continued on to Hahndorf, where we strolled the streets, admiring the old German architecture. Shared the chef's selection of gourmet wurst at the German Arms Hotel. Then on to The Stables guesthouse at Rowland Flat in the Barossa Valley, where we will stay for the next few nights.

2022-04-24

• Started the day with a guided tour of the sea lions at Seal Bay. Drove to Kingscote and had a coffee from Cuppa Joey at the town market. A chicken pizza at Cafe Scrumptious for lunch (possibly the greatest of all time), followed by gin tasting at Kangaroo Island Spirits (still don't understand the appeal). Afternoon show at the Raptor Domain, where I swooned over the eastern barn owl, and held a majestic wedge-tailed eagle. Pre-evening stroll along the Vivonne Bay Jetty. Home to sleep off the post-pizza blues.

2022-04-23

• After grabbing a coffee from the Vivonne Bay General Store, drove west along South Coast Road to Flinders Chase National Park. Walked out to Admirals Arch and Remarkable Rocks. Enjoyed a two hour nature tour with Jim from Hanson Bay Wildlife Sanctuary. Pandan chicken for dinner.

2022-04-22

• Picked up a Camry Hybrid hire car from Sixt and drove south along the B23 to Cape Jervis. Stopped for the perfect coffee at Valley of Yore in Myponga. Caught the SeaLink ferry to Kangaroo Island. Lunch was at Milli Mae's Pantry in Penneshaw. Then onward to the quaint Honeyeaters' Hideaway at Vivonne Bay.

2022-04-21

• Explored McLaren Vale with Steve from Cellar Door Tours. Visited Coates Wines, Hugo Wines, Richard Hamilton Wines (lunch break), Samson Tall Wines, and Graham Stevens Wines. A spectacular day. Closed out the evening with dinner at Star of Siam.

2022-04-20

• Road the tram from Victoria Square to Glenlg. Saw the beach. Flat, wide and empty. Picked up a shirt and beanie at the Bronze Snake. Followed by coffee at Zest Cafe. Lunch was at Luigi's Delicatessen. An unforgettable experience. A food-drunk stroll through Rundle Mall before returning to the Hilton to work off the lamb ragu at the gym. Closed the day with complimentary drinks and dinner at the hotel bar.

2022-04-19

• According to this article in the New York Times, almost 2,000 people experiencing homelessness died in Los Angeles County last year. A growing proportion were in their 50's and 60's, and 83% were men. Additional detail is available via Homeless Deaths Counts, and via this report from the Los Angeles County Department of Public Health.

• Arrived in Adelaide. A comfortable flight from Canberra on an Embraer 190. Staying at the Hilton. The power failed just prior to checkin, so we stowed our bags, and enjoyed a casual stroll around the city. A quick bite to eat at Sun Mi's Sushi at the Central Markets, followed by a complimentary sangiovese at the hotel (the lights are back on), before heading out to dinner at udaberri on Leigh Street.

2022-04-18

• A gradual return of strength after testing positive to COVID two weeks ago. Hit a max deadlift of 140kg and 2 x 8 @ 80kg squats at the gym. Still feeling wonky though. Just can't seem to shake it.

• According to this study from the Correctional Leaders Association, 1,555 people have been in solitary confinement in the United States for 6 years or more; 1,124 in Texas alone.